I concur that the PPK Bond used could have evry well been an all-steel version. However, here are two links to where you can buy an alloy framed PPK made in the '40s.
http://www.gunsameri...s/976565944.htmhttp://www.gunsameri...s/976053858.htmThe .25 Colt Vest pocket edition has been made since 1908 through the 50's. Here's a pic:
http://www.a-human-r...vestpocket.htmlSecretAgent-you're correct about the issue "G Man" S&W revolvers. The 2 1/2" ones are real nice, BTW.
Regarding "stopping power", and shot placement, I agree. I was mentioning something most people think they understand. If I were to discuss that unless the spinal cord or brain were damaged or 20% of blood lost, and begin to explain permanent wound cavitation, I feel I not only would have lost the spirit of the post, but aroused some confusion as well.
Yes, the new .17HMR is selling like hotcakes.
Inetresting about the Eon issue but I've never heard anything of that sort before.
Link about PPK, P5:
http://www.longmount...007-SeanConneryPPK jams:
http://www.handgunre...sp?make=WaltherBoothroyd never mentioned the dural frame. But when "something heavier" is a 14. oz S&W what would you figure? Flemming could have been mistaken, or he could have been referring to the bullet. But, as I said, why carry a 21+oz PPK when the S&W is so much lighter, packs a more powerful punch, and is more accurate unless use with a silencer is the only reason?
Interesting about the P99 muzzle noise/flash you describe. I'll have to pay more attention when next at the range.
Re jamming: A .22 in a pocket-sized pistol jams more than a larger-sized pistol in any calibre. A .25 is more prone to jamming as you stated because of the small size of the casing. The .32 is prone to the same problem. I would say that in a small-sized pistol, the .22 is most prone to jamming, followed by both the .25 and the .32. Gun quality, maintenence, and ammo used is important too. Obviously, a cheap gun will jam more than an expensive one. The Beretta 21a series in both .22 and .25 has no extractor and is prone to jams more often than the pricier TPH. However, the Beretta 21a series is MUCH more reliable than the Interarms stainless version of the TPH. The Dural German made TPH is better than the Beretta 21a when used with high-velocity (not sub-sonic or hyper velocity) ammo.
Interarms Walther guns are prone to jamming, period, especially with hollowpoint ammo. The German ones shoot great with FMJ. However, my German PP had to have the feeding ramp polished and the extractor set to ensure reliability with Federal 90gr. Hydrashock ammo.
My Beretta 418s have never jammed. The quality and craftsmanship they were made with is simply outstanding. They are easy to field-strip and clean. I use FMJ ammo for penetration, (forget the new Speer Gold Dot in .25 ACP!). I keep them clean and they never jam, ever.
Although subsonic ammo is preferable, the .22lr may be used with a suppressor. The muzzle velocity you read about for a .22 is from a rifle and is actually much lower when fired from a small calibre pistol. Parker-Hale or, stateside, AWC makes a superb suppressor for small Beretta and Walther pocket pistols. The AWC one is called the Titan 3. Friends of mine who own one use HV ammo as standard velocity, let alone low velocity subsonic ammo, jams their guns (both the Walther TPH and the Beretta 21A, BTW). As long as either of the guns I mentioned is cleaned after every 100 rounds no jamming occurs. The Titan 3 is wonderful and quiet, but not silent, too.
The .45 you mention is ideal. the small guns I mentioned are for concealed carry. If I were to use a .22 for such work, I would do as the Isrealis did and use a Beretta 70 series one. Hear they never jam. Would like to get my hands on one to try it out, but for now I will stick with my old Duramatic for plinking.
FYI, a link to AWC's site:
http://www.awcsystec...titanthree.htmlOut of the box, I really like the look and feel of the Kahr's. I would go with a 9mm, myself. I prefer to use 2 guns, a la Dr. No-something light, small and concealable, and something large for special occasions. Why compromise with just one? How many undercover cops have been deprived of their primary sidearm for whatever reason and would be dead now if it weren't for the fact they carried a small back-up?
"Best" is a very opinionated term. I like the Kahr primarily because it can be customized, having a metal frame/slide, unlike the "tupperware" out there. I didn't like Gardener's shallow books very much, but his choice of the ASP was a good move.
I concur that reliability is extremely important. That is why I have never understood everyone telling you if you can't handle the kick of a .38 or a .380 get a .22 pocket pistol (I've read and heard that a lot). They are not reliable enough (100%) for me to suggest anyone risk his or her life on one. The smallest .22 I would carry for personal defense is the lightweight Beretta 70 series semi-auto (16 oz, and just over 6" long, alas, too large for the pocket).
Therefore, I restate that there STILL exists a place for an out-of-the-box pocket-sized automatic pistol in .25ACP calibre like the fine product put out by Beretta--the 1919 series.
Commonly accepted definitions of offensive/defensive are subjective. Unless you're a policeman, you only draw your weapon to shoot somebody with it, never to brandish it, intimidate, stop someone, or scare anyone away. If you're that scared, showing the bad guy your weapon and not using it just removed your element of surprise and put the ball in his corner. If you draw, you shoot and if you shoot, you shoot to totally incapacitate. Therefore, only carry if you're willing to go the distance if necessary. Never draw/shoot, unless you're placed in imminent danger and your life is seriously in jeapordy. To me such use is defensive.
Edited by Almadjian, 09 April 2005 - 04:50 AM.